Leyre to San Sebastian

Today we visited two monasteries in the mountains. The first was high above a tiny stone buildings village, via a winding road that climbed to the abandoned monastery which was built into a natural recess in a rock wall. Quite sizeably, two levels and a wonderful labyrinths of rooms  and courtyards, including recessed chapels cut into the rock and its own natural spring. Everything built in stone, so cool and silent. A deep sense of quietness, as if the centuries of the monks occupation had sunk into its very bones. Former abbots were buried there under stone slabs. One where I could read a date was 1650 or thereabouts.  We then drove higher to the top of the ridge where the monastery was relocated and is in use today. Views of the snow clad Pyrannees.

It's spring here and the drive up was through superb mixed forest and many wild flowers. We stopped often and Shanti was in her element!  In fact the whole region is changing as we are closer to the mountains with plenty of rainfall, green fields and clean streams and rivers.

Then we drove to our accommodation in the hills near a tiny town called Yesa. It's a working monastery, Monasterio de Leyre, with one section converted to accommodation and the rest of it a fenced off monastery including yet another fabulous old church, this one more a cathedral on account of its size.  Surrounded by forest and with nearby rock walls soaring above it.  Visitors are permitted to enter the church several times a day when the monks chant their prayers. About 15 monks entered the church and we listened to about 35 minutes of gregorian chanting. This order is know for its daily rituals being based around singing, in Latin, with a small amount of spoken words.  Between these communal times in the church the monks retreat into their silent cloistered world. 

I recorded a brief clip of their singing.  With the reverberating acoustics of the high vaulted ceiling and the monks single voice then all voices singing, we were saturated in their music. Mesmerising.

Hello,

Since last writing we have completed two bunny hops, both by car; to La Rioja and then San Sebastion on the northern coast.

La Rioja is the uppermost part of a valley system that heads to the mediteranean, becoming very broad and flat by then. That was the arid plain we travelled out of Barcelona on.  But in La Rioja the valley is just starting out, with mountains on both sides and the valley floor also crinkled with hills. There is evidence of some rainfall and it is green, but not lush. Vineyards start abruptly and are packed in, mile after mile of them, usually small plots forming a mosaic pattern as far as you can see. Typically small land owners squeeze their vineyards into any space available, avoiding only the rock outcrops, stream beds and other non usable ground.  The vines are usually well separated bushes not much bigger than a rose bush but with old gnarly bases. (Unirrigated hence that approach.)  Other crops are around too; Olives as always often in the corners of a property, Walnuts, Hazelnuts, Almonds, Cherries  and Figs. The towns are generally small and houses packed into a clump, often on a hilltop in which case they are usually fortified with a wall and with a central cathedral. Many are beautifully preserved medieval towns - we stayed in one- La Guardia. Massive wooden entrance gate, orange roof tiled double story houses with narrow streets, some vehicular many not, and small plazas. 

On arrival we headed into the town centre.  Sunday afternoon and packed with people, eating and drinking at the bars and restaurants which were prolific. Football supporters from a club were there in club colors, marching noisily between bars, behind two trumpeters and a drum making a fearsome racket like you might expect at a bullfight.  A cello and double base were playing in another plaza.  The odd couple stood and did a few ballroom style twirls.  We eventually found a seat, not easy, and had some nibbles and a drink. Very nice.

The next day we drove to Haro home of many Rioja  wine producers.  Like Champagne they typicall source grapes from many growers and plots, them assemble the wines in their central facility, fronted, in the case of the big names, by beautiful retail outlets. We visited three names we know so well and had the thrill of sipping a favourite (La Rioja Alta) on a balcony overlooking their bird filled gardens.  We also visited the exceptional, extravagant hotel built on the Bodegas Marques de Riscal, drinking their wine again on an outside balcony but this time 5 star service and nibbles. The building is covered in curved sheets of titanium and is simply unbelievable. I put a photo on Flickr.

Day 3 Rioja we drove into the surrounding hills visiting several villages, and botanised at roadside, to good effect. The hills are forested with oak and other broad leaved  species, with many wildflowers in any clearings or wherever the forest did not extend. We recognised many of the plants as they are part of the alpine gardening world (Shanti in particular) is familiar with. How awesome to see them in their natural habitat and at such a good time of the year.

The next stage of travel bought us to San Sebastián, possibly the most perfect city in the world - it's beach is often regarded as the best city beach in Europe and the rest is just as good.  A circular bay with a golden sandy beach, an old township fronting that beach and the hills behind, great shopping and of course the centre of Basque culture including their Pintxos bars, which are everywhere.  Natural beauty, a wonderful swimming beach, warm but not hot climate, an outdoor culture with loads of people enjoying themselves downtown and every amenity you could want.  Not to mention at least a couple of cigar shops selling Havana cigars for well less than we can get them.   By early afternoon the Pintxos bars are doing a roaring trade with their offerings lined up on their bars, customers crowding the doorways and outdoor seats invariably with a glass of wine and talking flat out.  Extravagant double kiss greeting of anyone they meet and know, except men greeting men which involves backslapping and maybe a bit of a hug. 

Bilbao is only an hour away and we treated ourselves to a bit of luxury in the form of a private car trip there and back and our own guide to the Guggenheim Museum and later on a walk through the old town.  The car pleased me mightily being a big black Merc and we felt very regal being driven even if we did look like road kill in our grotty travellers clothes, jandals and sun hats. Hopefully the driver, in a black suit and tie, thought we were eccentric millionaires, although less likely so after our modest tip at the end.   He drove, home in particular, like a bat out of hell, but you would hardly notice it in the car and on the good highways.  Of the Guggenheim it's hard to know what to say about it.  The place is exceptional from first sight to last and everything in between.  A drenching in genius architecture and mind blowing art displays. 

We are currently wrapping it up in San Sebastián, having spent the day downtown walking the beach and paddling the water, a bit of shopping for SD and a Pintxos stop.  Walked there and back so an hours exercise, not total slobs.  Tonight we have booked at an underground restaurant, as many are, for a final sample of Basque cuisine.  Putting on weight - '5 months gone' is how Shanti describes herself. 'Titty piggie' would be my self descriptor!

Hope you are all well at home. Spain might seem exotic but funnily enough much as we enjoy the experience it only serves to remind us of you all and of our home! 

Lots of love

S&S xx