Chiang Mai, 19-20 July.

For the two days in Chiang Mai, York and Sunset were also staying on, so we could hook up with them. Elephants, Tigers and Snakes were the objective, although the city itself also surprised us with what it offered.

We drove on the first morning to an elephant camp, in the hills and an hour from the city. There we saw these marvelous animals - about 80 live there and are used as domestic labour, ceremonial training and occasions, and for visitors. They put on a demo and thrilled the crowd by kicking soccer balls (well), showing how lumber is extracted and stacked, and painting pictures. That last event involved several elephants lining up in front of their own canvas and painting something maybe a 6 year old human could do. Done with great delicacy and accuracy of brush handling, Then we rode for maybe 40 minutes on a canopy on an elephant, swaying our way up through the village and into it's marginal woodlands. So very silent. The elephant puts it's foot down noiselessly and gently, no wonder they can slide like shadows through the jungle.
We were carrying bunches of sugar cane and occasionally the elephant would probe hopefully in our direction, for something to chew on. A elephant in front had a poop which I had to photograph. Each plop, and there were many, was half bucket sized and hit the ground with a thud. Maybe 20 litres of urine - what a spectacle. The mahout successfully steered the elephants backside onto the road margin, where the consequences were less of a traffic hazard. Our Mahout was a small man, with a penetrating but musical voice. He called and guided the elephant throughout, occasionally breaking into happy song.

Next we visited a Tiger sanctuary, where cubs are raised and some of the young ones are well enough disposed for you to enter their compound and pat them, under supervision (for a fee of course!) We weren't going to miss that so were soon able to sit and pat, under strict supervision (and having signed an accident disclaimer) two different Tigers. One was a 120 kg 8 nth old female, the other a 21 mth 150kg male. The female would grow to 200kg the male to 250 kg. Enormous heads, golden eyes which said 'I may consider eating you', plate sized paws and exceedingly beautifully black striping on a golden coat. We approached the cats from behind, could sit behind them and pat their back or flank. A joy and adrenaline rush to be so close to one of the great icons of the natural world, and we managed to Skype with Henry, Grace and Iris to try to share a bit of the experience.

On to a snake house, probably not the most salubrious one in Chiang Mai, where a floor show was underway. A small group of visitors sat around a small cement floor with a very low 30 cm high wall, and bought out various snakes including the Asiatic cobra- an impressively beautiful dark black backed snake that coils or waves his rear half so he can lift the front half upright and spread the hood. Beady dark eyes, intensely alert, and immediately pivoting to face any movement within several metres. The 'highlight' of the show (accompanied by a microphone commentary from a strange youth) involved wrestling a python in a water tank, including getting as much of the snake as possible wrapped around the wrestlers neck. Lots of concerned babble from the commentator followed by great relief at the wrestlers survival and an impassioned request for payments from the audience for what they have just seen!

The compound housed the majestic King Cobra, a truly awesome snake of great size and all the aggression of the Asiatic cobra. They also had a python that we could handle, after washing it under a tap as it was drizzling and the ground was muddy. Again a much anticipated experience, to handle such an animal.

York was an invaluable guide and also took us to local jade manufacturing and silk manufacturing locations, where we saw the items being produced. The great and expensive jade items were enormous frothy dragons and other elaborate bits of exotica. The silk worms were enchanting - we saw the moths laying eggs, the raising of the caterpillars, and where the cocoons were woven by the mature caterpillars, on mass. The real surprise however was the spinning of the cocoons into a long thread. Handmade wooden equipment unravelled each cocoon in the most fine, spider thread thickness, to produce spools of magically light thread then dyed and woven on a wooden loom. Sometimes then printed on. What an achievement to develop this process so long ago, pre industrial, hand made equipment only, to produce what is still probably still the most exceptional and beautiful natural fabric.

York also introduced us to the 'Fish Spa', including the fish doctor where tanks of fish nibble your feet. Abominably tickly to start with, then delicious. Comfortable seats, a beer or green tea. Could be a franchise opportunity for someone? 'Rather be me than the fish' was my other thought, at the time!

Chiang Mai was a memorable destination that I would go back to. We finished off with a superb meal at riverside, and sucked in a deep breath for the onset of National Parks part 2 - Doi Inthanon.