Tony and Aoy picked us up from our Chiang Mai hotel, about 5.30 am. We drove into Doi Inthanon, which has Thailands highest mountain at about 8'000 ft. The trip was reasonably wet, ranging from downpours to drizzle, and that's how it was for 3 days.
We drove first to our accommodation, 'Mr Daengs Birdwatching .
Centre'. Mr Daengs and his family were delightful, and attentive hosts and our cooks for the 3 days. The area is more remote and largely subsistence farming in patches and villages carved out of the forest, so accommodation was very basic and uncomfortable by our standards, particularly in the wet. We used the centre as a base for shorter trips up various roadways, stopping at intervals to look for birdlife. Again there were many wonders to be seen, often colorful. Examples included the Collared Falconette, a truly tiny falcon species perching on tree tops, colorful kingfishers, intensely colored Niltavas and Sunbirds, and many others.
I'm not a bird sighting collector any more than being a train spotter, so the rapid fire sightings meant less than the closer and more extended encounters. One such event stands out for both of us - a visit to the top of Doi Inthanon, in the rain, to it's summit forests and to meet a very special resident the White Browed Shortwing (it needs a better, more fitting name).
The forest at 8,000 ft is still tall, with large trees. But the understory includes Rhododendrons such as R. arboreum, being one of the earliest species bought to the west ( as seed), grown here and used as a parent for many of the early hybrids that were bred. We have the species in our garden at Portobello.
In the wet, and cooler at that altitude (10 degrees C when we were there), it's a dark and striking forest. We hunted for some time for the target inhabitant, a robin like bird that lives on the forest floor. Tony called one in, with his tape. It sang the most exquisitely sweet and tuneful refrain, like a dunnock in terms of duration and sweetness, but with a rich and warm melodic quality. But try as we might we could not sight it and left that area, taking a break in a nearby clearing. As we approached the clearing we suddenly had glimpses of the bird, as the most fleeting of shadows in the forest floor, or perhaps just a flicker of light. In the clearing the birds - they were a pair - came out in the open and we had a long encounter, reminiscent of an NZ Robin encounter when the bird trustingly approaches you. The shortwing male is larger than our robin but otherwise not unlike it in posture. It has a very dark, slate blue plumage and prominent, even comical white eyebrows, being the only thing you can make out when in a dark shadow. The female was brown, like the leaf litter.
While the bird itself might not necessarily make the global bird star annual calendar, it's enchanting secretiveness and then trusting approach, it's habit of slipping in and out of view between the dark and less dark parts of the forest floor, it's exceedingly beautiful song emitted in bursts from the gloomy depths of this old forest, made it quite an experience and we keep referring to it and remembering it a great deal.
Other experiences in Doi Inthanon included enjoying the invertebrate life, my favorite being a small hunting spider (like the Trites species at home) but with an incomprehensible metallic body covering. How does it do that, on soft body parts such as the abdomen, where there is no rigid body shell such as for a shiny beetle? Another favorite was a cicada that, if you got close, the noise was too loud to bear and you covered you ears unless they split!
Somewhat a factor on the trip was however the musty bedroom, dank sheet less beds, wet bathroom, lack of clothes washing or drying facilities and awful plumbing of the room we returned to at the end of two long days in the field. So the flight out of Chiang Mai, carrying much wet and smelly clothing was a relief, even if it was to be the start of a long period of travel, with brief stopovers in Bangkok and Singapore, then a disgusting nighttime flight on Jetstar to Darwin, spitting us out at about 4.30 in the morning, for the last leg of the trip, in the Northern Territory.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Chiang Mai, 19-20 July.
For the two days in Chiang Mai, York and Sunset were also staying on, so we could hook up with them. Elephants, Tigers and Snakes were the objective, although the city itself also surprised us with what it offered.
We drove on the first morning to an elephant camp, in the hills and an hour from the city. There we saw these marvelous animals - about 80 live there and are used as domestic labour, ceremonial training and occasions, and for visitors. They put on a demo and thrilled the crowd by kicking soccer balls (well), showing how lumber is extracted and stacked, and painting pictures. That last event involved several elephants lining up in front of their own canvas and painting something maybe a 6 year old human could do. Done with great delicacy and accuracy of brush handling, Then we rode for maybe 40 minutes on a canopy on an elephant, swaying our way up through the village and into it's marginal woodlands. So very silent. The elephant puts it's foot down noiselessly and gently, no wonder they can slide like shadows through the jungle.
We were carrying bunches of sugar cane and occasionally the elephant would probe hopefully in our direction, for something to chew on. A elephant in front had a poop which I had to photograph. Each plop, and there were many, was half bucket sized and hit the ground with a thud. Maybe 20 litres of urine - what a spectacle. The mahout successfully steered the elephants backside onto the road margin, where the consequences were less of a traffic hazard. Our Mahout was a small man, with a penetrating but musical voice. He called and guided the elephant throughout, occasionally breaking into happy song.
Next we visited a Tiger sanctuary, where cubs are raised and some of the young ones are well enough disposed for you to enter their compound and pat them, under supervision (for a fee of course!) We weren't going to miss that so were soon able to sit and pat, under strict supervision (and having signed an accident disclaimer) two different Tigers. One was a 120 kg 8 nth old female, the other a 21 mth 150kg male. The female would grow to 200kg the male to 250 kg. Enormous heads, golden eyes which said 'I may consider eating you', plate sized paws and exceedingly beautifully black striping on a golden coat. We approached the cats from behind, could sit behind them and pat their back or flank. A joy and adrenaline rush to be so close to one of the great icons of the natural world, and we managed to Skype with Henry, Grace and Iris to try to share a bit of the experience.
On to a snake house, probably not the most salubrious one in Chiang Mai, where a floor show was underway. A small group of visitors sat around a small cement floor with a very low 30 cm high wall, and bought out various snakes including the Asiatic cobra- an impressively beautiful dark black backed snake that coils or waves his rear half so he can lift the front half upright and spread the hood. Beady dark eyes, intensely alert, and immediately pivoting to face any movement within several metres. The 'highlight' of the show (accompanied by a microphone commentary from a strange youth) involved wrestling a python in a water tank, including getting as much of the snake as possible wrapped around the wrestlers neck. Lots of concerned babble from the commentator followed by great relief at the wrestlers survival and an impassioned request for payments from the audience for what they have just seen!
The compound housed the majestic King Cobra, a truly awesome snake of great size and all the aggression of the Asiatic cobra. They also had a python that we could handle, after washing it under a tap as it was drizzling and the ground was muddy. Again a much anticipated experience, to handle such an animal.
York was an invaluable guide and also took us to local jade manufacturing and silk manufacturing locations, where we saw the items being produced. The great and expensive jade items were enormous frothy dragons and other elaborate bits of exotica. The silk worms were enchanting - we saw the moths laying eggs, the raising of the caterpillars, and where the cocoons were woven by the mature caterpillars, on mass. The real surprise however was the spinning of the cocoons into a long thread. Handmade wooden equipment unravelled each cocoon in the most fine, spider thread thickness, to produce spools of magically light thread then dyed and woven on a wooden loom. Sometimes then printed on. What an achievement to develop this process so long ago, pre industrial, hand made equipment only, to produce what is still probably still the most exceptional and beautiful natural fabric.
York also introduced us to the 'Fish Spa', including the fish doctor where tanks of fish nibble your feet. Abominably tickly to start with, then delicious. Comfortable seats, a beer or green tea. Could be a franchise opportunity for someone? 'Rather be me than the fish' was my other thought, at the time!
Chiang Mai was a memorable destination that I would go back to. We finished off with a superb meal at riverside, and sucked in a deep breath for the onset of National Parks part 2 - Doi Inthanon.
We drove on the first morning to an elephant camp, in the hills and an hour from the city. There we saw these marvelous animals - about 80 live there and are used as domestic labour, ceremonial training and occasions, and for visitors. They put on a demo and thrilled the crowd by kicking soccer balls (well), showing how lumber is extracted and stacked, and painting pictures. That last event involved several elephants lining up in front of their own canvas and painting something maybe a 6 year old human could do. Done with great delicacy and accuracy of brush handling, Then we rode for maybe 40 minutes on a canopy on an elephant, swaying our way up through the village and into it's marginal woodlands. So very silent. The elephant puts it's foot down noiselessly and gently, no wonder they can slide like shadows through the jungle.
We were carrying bunches of sugar cane and occasionally the elephant would probe hopefully in our direction, for something to chew on. A elephant in front had a poop which I had to photograph. Each plop, and there were many, was half bucket sized and hit the ground with a thud. Maybe 20 litres of urine - what a spectacle. The mahout successfully steered the elephants backside onto the road margin, where the consequences were less of a traffic hazard. Our Mahout was a small man, with a penetrating but musical voice. He called and guided the elephant throughout, occasionally breaking into happy song.
Next we visited a Tiger sanctuary, where cubs are raised and some of the young ones are well enough disposed for you to enter their compound and pat them, under supervision (for a fee of course!) We weren't going to miss that so were soon able to sit and pat, under strict supervision (and having signed an accident disclaimer) two different Tigers. One was a 120 kg 8 nth old female, the other a 21 mth 150kg male. The female would grow to 200kg the male to 250 kg. Enormous heads, golden eyes which said 'I may consider eating you', plate sized paws and exceedingly beautifully black striping on a golden coat. We approached the cats from behind, could sit behind them and pat their back or flank. A joy and adrenaline rush to be so close to one of the great icons of the natural world, and we managed to Skype with Henry, Grace and Iris to try to share a bit of the experience.
On to a snake house, probably not the most salubrious one in Chiang Mai, where a floor show was underway. A small group of visitors sat around a small cement floor with a very low 30 cm high wall, and bought out various snakes including the Asiatic cobra- an impressively beautiful dark black backed snake that coils or waves his rear half so he can lift the front half upright and spread the hood. Beady dark eyes, intensely alert, and immediately pivoting to face any movement within several metres. The 'highlight' of the show (accompanied by a microphone commentary from a strange youth) involved wrestling a python in a water tank, including getting as much of the snake as possible wrapped around the wrestlers neck. Lots of concerned babble from the commentator followed by great relief at the wrestlers survival and an impassioned request for payments from the audience for what they have just seen!
The compound housed the majestic King Cobra, a truly awesome snake of great size and all the aggression of the Asiatic cobra. They also had a python that we could handle, after washing it under a tap as it was drizzling and the ground was muddy. Again a much anticipated experience, to handle such an animal.
York was an invaluable guide and also took us to local jade manufacturing and silk manufacturing locations, where we saw the items being produced. The great and expensive jade items were enormous frothy dragons and other elaborate bits of exotica. The silk worms were enchanting - we saw the moths laying eggs, the raising of the caterpillars, and where the cocoons were woven by the mature caterpillars, on mass. The real surprise however was the spinning of the cocoons into a long thread. Handmade wooden equipment unravelled each cocoon in the most fine, spider thread thickness, to produce spools of magically light thread then dyed and woven on a wooden loom. Sometimes then printed on. What an achievement to develop this process so long ago, pre industrial, hand made equipment only, to produce what is still probably still the most exceptional and beautiful natural fabric.
York also introduced us to the 'Fish Spa', including the fish doctor where tanks of fish nibble your feet. Abominably tickly to start with, then delicious. Comfortable seats, a beer or green tea. Could be a franchise opportunity for someone? 'Rather be me than the fish' was my other thought, at the time!
Chiang Mai was a memorable destination that I would go back to. We finished off with a superb meal at riverside, and sucked in a deep breath for the onset of National Parks part 2 - Doi Inthanon.
Ayutthaya to Chiang Mai, via Sukothai, by road.
Tony Eagle Eye left us and York, our next guide and driver 'Sunset' (Sunrise a possible better option?) picked us up, at the slightly more civilized time of 9 am. Of to a good start we thought.
Ayutthaya was an earlier capital, before the Bangkok was drained and canalled and the better port attracted the development of the present capital. Prior to that, boat traffic from abroad approached Ayuthaya by river and it was a vey major far east trading centre. In the 13th century an island region in the city was built as an imperial enclave, and filled with riches and the greatest of the architectural heritage at the time. Wonderful courtyards, soaring stupas and prangs (constructions with a religious or cultural purpose, such as housing a relic of the Buddha), and magnificent Buddha statues, enormous, stone and plaster constructed and originally gold covered. This imperial site was ransacked by Burmese invaders who smashed what they could but often leaving the Buddhas, except for lighting fires around them to melt off the gold. Once abandoned the site was overcome with vegetation until cleared and opened as a world heritage site, in recent times. A tremendous thrill to walk through this wonderful old city, some parts relatively intact others almost leveled to the ground.
We drove to Sukhothai, further north, and the next day visited a similar location - about a 13th century city centre, protected by moat and wall and being a royal precinct and a working Buddhist temple complex in it's day. We say Buddhist but it's much more complex as Thailand was a melting pot of incoming influences and seemed to us to be some incomprehensible amalgam of Hindu, Buddhist, Khymer and pagan superstitions. Wonderfully colorful, rich and exotic! Sukhothai, unlike Ayutthaya, has not been physically smashed by invasion so only the ravages of time had eroded it to it's current state. Valuables had been looted and gold burned off the statues but otherwise it felt more intact and we adored wandering it's atmospheric, powerfully structured, formally laid out buildings and grounds. Not many people about and a treat for the camera!
The final drive north was through increasingly hilly terrain, with family sized plots of rice fields and other produce. We drove into the northern city of Chiang Mai, with two days available before the next National Park trip with Tony and Aoy was to begin.
Ayutthaya was an earlier capital, before the Bangkok was drained and canalled and the better port attracted the development of the present capital. Prior to that, boat traffic from abroad approached Ayuthaya by river and it was a vey major far east trading centre. In the 13th century an island region in the city was built as an imperial enclave, and filled with riches and the greatest of the architectural heritage at the time. Wonderful courtyards, soaring stupas and prangs (constructions with a religious or cultural purpose, such as housing a relic of the Buddha), and magnificent Buddha statues, enormous, stone and plaster constructed and originally gold covered. This imperial site was ransacked by Burmese invaders who smashed what they could but often leaving the Buddhas, except for lighting fires around them to melt off the gold. Once abandoned the site was overcome with vegetation until cleared and opened as a world heritage site, in recent times. A tremendous thrill to walk through this wonderful old city, some parts relatively intact others almost leveled to the ground.
We drove to Sukhothai, further north, and the next day visited a similar location - about a 13th century city centre, protected by moat and wall and being a royal precinct and a working Buddhist temple complex in it's day. We say Buddhist but it's much more complex as Thailand was a melting pot of incoming influences and seemed to us to be some incomprehensible amalgam of Hindu, Buddhist, Khymer and pagan superstitions. Wonderfully colorful, rich and exotic! Sukhothai, unlike Ayutthaya, has not been physically smashed by invasion so only the ravages of time had eroded it to it's current state. Valuables had been looted and gold burned off the statues but otherwise it felt more intact and we adored wandering it's atmospheric, powerfully structured, formally laid out buildings and grounds. Not many people about and a treat for the camera!
The final drive north was through increasingly hilly terrain, with family sized plots of rice fields and other produce. We drove into the northern city of Chiang Mai, with two days available before the next National Park trip with Tony and Aoy was to begin.
Khao Yai national park 15-17 July '11
Tony our guide picked us up from the Pathumwan Princess at 5 am, for the half day drive to the park. His partner- girlfriend or whatever drove us, in a Pajero 4wd. Absolutely delightful girl called Aoy. The outskirts of Bangkok are as grotty as you would expect, then the moderate hills of the park approached, forest covered. It was showery, and we discovered it was a national holiday and Bangkok citizens would likely head in droves to the park - and they did. We stopped repeatedly at roadside venues to look at the hills, where wild tigers and elephants still live, and to see some of the incredible birdlife. It included 3 species of hornbill, the Asian equivalent of the South American Toucan. The Hornbills are larger, less graceful but still impressive and noisy denizens of the upper canopy. We were also thrilled to hear and see Gibbons, those long armed aerialists that swing through the trees. Their calling is wonderful - musical whoops and hollering that carries a long way. There were also pig tailed Macaques at roadside, materializing out of the bush when we stopped the vehicle. 'Very bad' we were told - don't put any item down, leave a car door open or let one approach closely. On several occasions we encountered larger troops of these monkeys on the road, bringing traffic to a standstill. Absolute indifference on the part of the Macaques, sitting and a walking where they chose. There were also wild deer, Samba, seen regularly in forest openings.
We walked in the forest on later occasions but for day 1 it was all roadside. There was continual traffic to contend with but we still saw wonderful birdlife such as the two species of Trogon that live there, colorful but elusive. Being wet there were leeches even at roadside. We rocked in our new gaiters, well drenched in repellant, although Shanti discovered one bloody splotch on her knee that night where one had crawled up. We watched them closely they can move rapidly, covering a metre of ground in maybe 20 seconds then once on you can climb quickly until they find a place to bite.
Apparently we had to get away early the next morning, and another guide turned up for a free ride maybe, and we drove back into the forest. This time we walked into the forest and were drowned by cicada noise and Gibbons whooping. We were chasing the tiny forest kIngfisher, to no good effect, but loved the experience of being in this untouched part of the forest. After lunch in a local camping ground again (rice, with several dishes of accompaniments, some spicy), we drove to our final destination for the day, a bat cave. On dusk, bats started emerging then flew in an unbroken stream, with an audible rush like water and sometimes a burst of staccato chattering from a bat that strayed closed. Early in the piece a peregrine falcon turned up and dive bombed the column otherwise it was just the extraordinary sight of the endless bats issuing into a hot, spectacularly clouded evening sky. It takes over an hour for the millions of bats to all emerge.
About a 16 hour day before we hit bed that night, but at least this time we did not have to contend with a nearby barking dog going off half the night.
Apparently we had to get away very early the next morning, to see water birds at a large irrigation dam, on the way to our end of trip drop off at the city of Ayuthaya. The highlight of the day was lunch. We stopped at a fairly shabby looking location and climbed steps to a covered deck, right beside and within touching distance of one of those extraordinary messes of wires that festoon power poles country wide. Being a fresh water fishery area we tried some whole fish dishes, with various bowls of curry pastes, and the usual wonderful thin soup of cocoanut milk, ginger, lemon grass, chili and often a fish head. By evening we finished a long day dropped of in Ayuthaya, the former capital of Thailand in the days it was called Siam.
We walked in the forest on later occasions but for day 1 it was all roadside. There was continual traffic to contend with but we still saw wonderful birdlife such as the two species of Trogon that live there, colorful but elusive. Being wet there were leeches even at roadside. We rocked in our new gaiters, well drenched in repellant, although Shanti discovered one bloody splotch on her knee that night where one had crawled up. We watched them closely they can move rapidly, covering a metre of ground in maybe 20 seconds then once on you can climb quickly until they find a place to bite.
Apparently we had to get away early the next morning, and another guide turned up for a free ride maybe, and we drove back into the forest. This time we walked into the forest and were drowned by cicada noise and Gibbons whooping. We were chasing the tiny forest kIngfisher, to no good effect, but loved the experience of being in this untouched part of the forest. After lunch in a local camping ground again (rice, with several dishes of accompaniments, some spicy), we drove to our final destination for the day, a bat cave. On dusk, bats started emerging then flew in an unbroken stream, with an audible rush like water and sometimes a burst of staccato chattering from a bat that strayed closed. Early in the piece a peregrine falcon turned up and dive bombed the column otherwise it was just the extraordinary sight of the endless bats issuing into a hot, spectacularly clouded evening sky. It takes over an hour for the millions of bats to all emerge.
About a 16 hour day before we hit bed that night, but at least this time we did not have to contend with a nearby barking dog going off half the night.
Apparently we had to get away very early the next morning, to see water birds at a large irrigation dam, on the way to our end of trip drop off at the city of Ayuthaya. The highlight of the day was lunch. We stopped at a fairly shabby looking location and climbed steps to a covered deck, right beside and within touching distance of one of those extraordinary messes of wires that festoon power poles country wide. Being a fresh water fishery area we tried some whole fish dishes, with various bowls of curry pastes, and the usual wonderful thin soup of cocoanut milk, ginger, lemon grass, chili and often a fish head. By evening we finished a long day dropped of in Ayuthaya, the former capital of Thailand in the days it was called Siam.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Bangkok days 2-4
Very remiss keeping up with travel blog but generally too rooted at end of day, the 16 hour session yesterday being a case in point. But it should encourage brevity - highlights only!
On day 2 Bangkok we had a full day planned trip with a guide and driver. We headed west after an early rise and drove through canal crisscrossed flatlands, and onto another powered longboat to explore the area and visit a 'floating market'. The canal area was extensive but more rural, lined with homes and trees, without the city squalor. Homes had boats outside them sometimes hoisted out of the water, and there was domestic boat traffic put putting around. Quite charming and colorful, with narrow tree covered canal lanes, and plenty of flowers, orchards and birdlife. As we approached the market area we passed open boats stacked with vegetables and fruits and by the time we were in the market it was congested chaos. Boats ranged in size and type, including simple paddled canoes stacked to the gunnels with produced and often paddled by an elderly character. Photos show the color and the spectacle of a community that lives by, moves on and markets on the canals.
In the afternoon we (grudgingly) visited a renowned attraction, the bridge over the river Kwai, being a landmark on the Thailand to Burma railway built in WW2 by POW's of the Japanese, who were moving down through SW Asia. It's a story of terrible brutality and the museum was upsetting, not to mention the acres of close set graves in front of it where some of the identified Allied casualties were relocated. But it doesn't hurt to see what humans got up to in the recent past and see where thousands of POW's finished their days, and in what a state. You wouldnt want to be Japanese and visit the place it pulled no punches on the depravity of their conduct.
The bridge itself was bombed by the allies but has been reconstructed. We walked over it then trained up a stretch of the rail line, now a commuting track for locals and attraction for visitors, before being collected by our driver for return to BK.
Days 3 and 4 we had nothing planned except to dive into the city and see what happened. So we jumped in a Tuk Tuk (3 wheetr bike) - big mistake. The drivers frequent their local patches and have arrangements with many local retailers for commissions on tourists bought to the shops in question. The drivers were a nightmare, scoundrels as were most of the related shops selling dodgy wares such as cheap tailoring services or cut price gemstones etc. After several Tuk Tuk experiences and virtual standing battles to get to where we wanted to go we gave up on them and found the sky train network. In the meantime we visited the showcased home of a former American who collected Thai art and whose home has become a museum. We also had to check out some of the Sapphire, ruby, gold silver and jade shops for which the city is famous. That night we dined on a highrise rooftop restaurant, the city around us quite breathtaking at night.
We were staying next to a 7 story shopping centre (MBK centre), and experience in itself. Each floor seemingly endless and packed with shops of all sizes and loaded with people. Next day we started out in the mall then walked to a Thai massage house, to get pummeled for 2 hours. Thai massage includes a lot of postural manipulation and takes getting use to but we emerged into the dripping heat feeling fantastic and continued our walk to a park, where the highlight was seeing water monitors again, fearsome looking brutes swimming in the ponds and lounging water side. That night we extended the tradition of trying each of the three excellent hotel restaurants, before and early night in prep for the first 3 day national park tour. - first up Khao Yai.
On day 2 Bangkok we had a full day planned trip with a guide and driver. We headed west after an early rise and drove through canal crisscrossed flatlands, and onto another powered longboat to explore the area and visit a 'floating market'. The canal area was extensive but more rural, lined with homes and trees, without the city squalor. Homes had boats outside them sometimes hoisted out of the water, and there was domestic boat traffic put putting around. Quite charming and colorful, with narrow tree covered canal lanes, and plenty of flowers, orchards and birdlife. As we approached the market area we passed open boats stacked with vegetables and fruits and by the time we were in the market it was congested chaos. Boats ranged in size and type, including simple paddled canoes stacked to the gunnels with produced and often paddled by an elderly character. Photos show the color and the spectacle of a community that lives by, moves on and markets on the canals.
In the afternoon we (grudgingly) visited a renowned attraction, the bridge over the river Kwai, being a landmark on the Thailand to Burma railway built in WW2 by POW's of the Japanese, who were moving down through SW Asia. It's a story of terrible brutality and the museum was upsetting, not to mention the acres of close set graves in front of it where some of the identified Allied casualties were relocated. But it doesn't hurt to see what humans got up to in the recent past and see where thousands of POW's finished their days, and in what a state. You wouldnt want to be Japanese and visit the place it pulled no punches on the depravity of their conduct.
The bridge itself was bombed by the allies but has been reconstructed. We walked over it then trained up a stretch of the rail line, now a commuting track for locals and attraction for visitors, before being collected by our driver for return to BK.
Days 3 and 4 we had nothing planned except to dive into the city and see what happened. So we jumped in a Tuk Tuk (3 wheetr bike) - big mistake. The drivers frequent their local patches and have arrangements with many local retailers for commissions on tourists bought to the shops in question. The drivers were a nightmare, scoundrels as were most of the related shops selling dodgy wares such as cheap tailoring services or cut price gemstones etc. After several Tuk Tuk experiences and virtual standing battles to get to where we wanted to go we gave up on them and found the sky train network. In the meantime we visited the showcased home of a former American who collected Thai art and whose home has become a museum. We also had to check out some of the Sapphire, ruby, gold silver and jade shops for which the city is famous. That night we dined on a highrise rooftop restaurant, the city around us quite breathtaking at night.
We were staying next to a 7 story shopping centre (MBK centre), and experience in itself. Each floor seemingly endless and packed with shops of all sizes and loaded with people. Next day we started out in the mall then walked to a Thai massage house, to get pummeled for 2 hours. Thai massage includes a lot of postural manipulation and takes getting use to but we emerged into the dripping heat feeling fantastic and continued our walk to a park, where the highlight was seeing water monitors again, fearsome looking brutes swimming in the ponds and lounging water side. That night we extended the tradition of trying each of the three excellent hotel restaurants, before and early night in prep for the first 3 day national park tour. - first up Khao Yai.
Monday, July 11, 2011
Bangkok day 1
We flew into Bangkok late, and by 1.30 in the morning and not yet asleep I was questioning the 9am tour of the city scheduled in the morning. But it was booked so we got our arses out of bed (a fair description of us at the time) but redeemed by breakfast - tropical fruits, coffee, eggs and a slice of glazed ham. Our guide Arty arrived, outstandingly cheerful and keen to get going. We drove 30 kms across town, achieving no obvious change in scenery, then arriving in the Royal District which included the Grand Palace which houses the 'Emerald Buddha'. We were staggered at the place it is frothing with ornate, extravagant buildings, gold plated or ceramic tiled, courtyards with old bonsai trees, various shrines and pulsating with people. They included many visitors but also many Thai nationals visiting it as a place of pilgrimage. The heat was horrendous, survivable under cover but not in the sun, so we bought Shanti an umbrella and I put on a grubby hat I carry with me and we walked on to a berthing area beside a nearby canal, and boarded a motorized longboat. Beautiful craft, long and made of hardwood with a canvass canopy. But most surprisingly - powered by an exposed car engine that drove a long straight shaft with propellor at the end. The boat drivers could lift the prop out of the water and shift it's position like a long oar. They took pride in various theatrics such as steering with their feet, and the guide made several mentions of the James Bond movie that includes a boat chase on these canals, with these vessels. Further indications of that were the drivers waiting for a clear spot to gun the engine which roared and belched smoke. Competition to get ahead of others was also evident so it's not quite a serenade in Venice, despite them also making that comparison.
We boated for nearly an hour, through the rabbit warren canals of the Bangkok flatlands, otherwise packed and teeming with residences and people. It was great fun hurtling along on the water but the sight of people fishing in these filthy canals with teetering wooden buildings lining them the whole way also also kinda gross. We saw various strange sights including a man feeding fish off his balcony. A very large water monitor was also down in the water trying to clamber up the steep bank and beat the fish to it.
By the time we were taxied back to the hotel the eyes were popping and brain in overload, so we went out for lunch and some shopping for a few items, which was not as restful as expected. Not sure what to do tonight - BK is out there pumping but we are still resting up a bit, plus I've seen 'The Hangover' and am not sure how many blocks of this place we could navigate and still get back!
We boated for nearly an hour, through the rabbit warren canals of the Bangkok flatlands, otherwise packed and teeming with residences and people. It was great fun hurtling along on the water but the sight of people fishing in these filthy canals with teetering wooden buildings lining them the whole way also also kinda gross. We saw various strange sights including a man feeding fish off his balcony. A very large water monitor was also down in the water trying to clamber up the steep bank and beat the fish to it.
By the time we were taxied back to the hotel the eyes were popping and brain in overload, so we went out for lunch and some shopping for a few items, which was not as restful as expected. Not sure what to do tonight - BK is out there pumping but we are still resting up a bit, plus I've seen 'The Hangover' and am not sure how many blocks of this place we could navigate and still get back!
Perth and SW Australia 1-10 July '11
We are recovering from our first morning in Bangkok (by lying down), with the evening to plan. but before that - 10 days in Perth and further south with Rose and Elliot.
Hard to remember all we did let alone describe in one blog. The highlight was the company of Rose and Elliot, then add in transport and an itinerary of travel through some wonderful country with nice accommodation, more food and wine than strictly necessary and lots of playing with the camera!
We started with a couple of nights in Perth seeing where Rose and Elliot live, seeing the city and some of their haunts, then we headed south to Margaret River, initially on the freeway then onto a more coastal road. We loved seeing again the red earth and Eucalyptus forests that make driving there such a pleasure. Margaret River has a distinctly coastal feel with it's cooler, lusher vegetation and our accommodation was in a park like setting with a sizable pond in front. We went straight outside with the binocs, to look around, then into town for a meal and the first of a sequence of wine tasting events as we battled round many vineyards over the following two days. Unanimous agreement - wines are good with Cab Sav excelling.
Some of the vineyards are grand and expensive to say the least, others less so and some still family run businesses. but all in a beautiful park like region with stands of tall trees, rolling pasture and a generally well off rural look.
One highlight among many was visiting Lavender Farm - a garden and cafe - and eventually to find the tiny fairy wrens - two species- in residence. A tiny creature with a long tail held up at a rakish angle, and moving in family groups in a constant state of excitement. Life is never dull when you weigh only a few grams and look as enchanting as they do. But a photographic challenge to even get one in the photo, in focus and not blurred or just departing.
Rose and Elliot had also planned a treat, a visit to a bird of prey sanctuary where we were stunned by a display of Kites who flew around their trainer and caught items of food in the air and off the ground. we had a chance to hold one on a gloved arm and view it face to face. This is a bird we will see a lot of in the Darwin region.
The sanitary also had a collection of other raptors, most recovering birds that would be released back into the wild. The owls in particular thrilled us, with a range of specie including the very alien looking and endangered grassland owl from the northern territories.
Rather stunned by that experience we had more to come, including seeing migratory humpbacks very clearly off the coast from out next location in Augusta, then a half day trip getting up close to them by boat. There are plenty around and it seemed to be not a problem to get within 100m of a number of whales as they tracked north, surfacing regularly and showing their backs as they rolled up to breathe and with the occasional flash of a tail.
The coast also included a visit to the Cape Leeuwen lighthouse where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet in the SW corner, along a treacherous reef extending kilometers out to sea. A classic lighthouse beauty, very tall, old, white and sited on a peninsula with sea on both sides. We climbed to the top and saw the original mechanism that rotated the lens, and the lens itself which is still a working unit.
From Augusta we tracked further south to Nornalup, close to Walpole. This took us deep into the southern forests where the Eucalyptus must make some of Australia's greatest forests of tall trees. They are ancient Gondwanaland forests and certainly feel it with their close spaced massive trees and cool, dimly lit interiors. We visited an area where the forest was particularly good, with an elevated walkway, and a ground level trail also.
All this time we were taking our usual interest in the bird life and enjoying in particular some of the species restricted to the area. A few were photographed successfully, many not. Perhaps the best shot was Elliots when we visited the coast near Nornalup (to a place called Conspicuous Cliff). A Nankeen Kestrel came in within meters and hung motionless, in flight, on an updraft.
The final days travel was a longer drive back to Perth but much of it through good forested country, then a last night on the town. Sadly we were off the next day but having had some treasured time together and now feeling somewhat familiar with and appreciative of that south west corner of the continent.
Thanks Rose and Elliot, you planned a memorable trip and looked after us a treat.
S and S xx
Hard to remember all we did let alone describe in one blog. The highlight was the company of Rose and Elliot, then add in transport and an itinerary of travel through some wonderful country with nice accommodation, more food and wine than strictly necessary and lots of playing with the camera!
We started with a couple of nights in Perth seeing where Rose and Elliot live, seeing the city and some of their haunts, then we headed south to Margaret River, initially on the freeway then onto a more coastal road. We loved seeing again the red earth and Eucalyptus forests that make driving there such a pleasure. Margaret River has a distinctly coastal feel with it's cooler, lusher vegetation and our accommodation was in a park like setting with a sizable pond in front. We went straight outside with the binocs, to look around, then into town for a meal and the first of a sequence of wine tasting events as we battled round many vineyards over the following two days. Unanimous agreement - wines are good with Cab Sav excelling.
Some of the vineyards are grand and expensive to say the least, others less so and some still family run businesses. but all in a beautiful park like region with stands of tall trees, rolling pasture and a generally well off rural look.
One highlight among many was visiting Lavender Farm - a garden and cafe - and eventually to find the tiny fairy wrens - two species- in residence. A tiny creature with a long tail held up at a rakish angle, and moving in family groups in a constant state of excitement. Life is never dull when you weigh only a few grams and look as enchanting as they do. But a photographic challenge to even get one in the photo, in focus and not blurred or just departing.
Rose and Elliot had also planned a treat, a visit to a bird of prey sanctuary where we were stunned by a display of Kites who flew around their trainer and caught items of food in the air and off the ground. we had a chance to hold one on a gloved arm and view it face to face. This is a bird we will see a lot of in the Darwin region.
The sanitary also had a collection of other raptors, most recovering birds that would be released back into the wild. The owls in particular thrilled us, with a range of specie including the very alien looking and endangered grassland owl from the northern territories.
Rather stunned by that experience we had more to come, including seeing migratory humpbacks very clearly off the coast from out next location in Augusta, then a half day trip getting up close to them by boat. There are plenty around and it seemed to be not a problem to get within 100m of a number of whales as they tracked north, surfacing regularly and showing their backs as they rolled up to breathe and with the occasional flash of a tail.
The coast also included a visit to the Cape Leeuwen lighthouse where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet in the SW corner, along a treacherous reef extending kilometers out to sea. A classic lighthouse beauty, very tall, old, white and sited on a peninsula with sea on both sides. We climbed to the top and saw the original mechanism that rotated the lens, and the lens itself which is still a working unit.
From Augusta we tracked further south to Nornalup, close to Walpole. This took us deep into the southern forests where the Eucalyptus must make some of Australia's greatest forests of tall trees. They are ancient Gondwanaland forests and certainly feel it with their close spaced massive trees and cool, dimly lit interiors. We visited an area where the forest was particularly good, with an elevated walkway, and a ground level trail also.
All this time we were taking our usual interest in the bird life and enjoying in particular some of the species restricted to the area. A few were photographed successfully, many not. Perhaps the best shot was Elliots when we visited the coast near Nornalup (to a place called Conspicuous Cliff). A Nankeen Kestrel came in within meters and hung motionless, in flight, on an updraft.
The final days travel was a longer drive back to Perth but much of it through good forested country, then a last night on the town. Sadly we were off the next day but having had some treasured time together and now feeling somewhat familiar with and appreciative of that south west corner of the continent.
Thanks Rose and Elliot, you planned a memorable trip and looked after us a treat.
S and S xx
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)