We flew into Darwin from Singapore, on a disgusting overnight Jetstar flight that tipped us out in Dawrin about 4.30 am. Didn't see much of the following day except to make it to an excellent restaurant for dinner, under a balmy sky. Four nights of R&R after the Thailand program was very welcome. We did put in a couple of events, hiring a car to drive to a wildlife park and also an evening dinner cruise on the harbour, enjoying seafood dinning on a nice vessel, with sunset over the East Timor sea thrown in. Darwin a town rather than a city, visitors in evidence, tourist shopping a la Queenstown, but plenty of distinctive locals also including what looked like station hands etc in the big smoke for a bit of a session. Pubs with extensive covered courtyards, beer flowing any time of day. Here we also did our first pool lounging of the trip, 'so now it feels like a holiday'remarked Shanti.
We flew Darwin to Kununurra and settled in for several nights there. The flight was a reminder of the desert expanses of Australia, being mostly over arid and uninhabited flatland. Kununnurra itself is on the edge of the Eastern Kimberleys, the uplifted NW corner of the Continent with it's distinctive sandstone plateaus, escarpments and hill country. Kununnurra itself is a small town of just a few thousand, but with a big future given the water resources they have tapped (Lake Argyle,the Ord River and Lake Kununnurra) and the extent of the irrigible floodplains - a food bowl of the future. There is a lot of emphasis in the local tourist industry in showing off those developments as the reason for the town itself (and an impressive it is), but for us it was the Kimberley landforms that mostly attracted. The sandstones are some of the oldest rocks on the planet surface and have stayed remarkably flat as they were uplifted by earlier tectonic activity, but also folded and faulted in places then eroded over the ages to produce a distinctive landscape, typified by cliffed escarpments, plateaus, red walled gorges and some surprising landforms like the Bungle Bungles.
Before we even started to look around we were taken by the Baobab trees, with their swollen trunks. Dotted over the region rather than in stands, they are impressive sentinels and incredible against the dry landscape. We started our explorations with a sunset cruise on L Kununnurra, murky, with small freshies (fresh waters crocs) in evidence, plus water skiers!('trolling for crocs' said the captain.) Pu
shing into the backwaters was fun, with more birdlife and still, reflective water. With the rise and fall of the lake the backwaters have drowned trees, poking out of the waters singly or in stands, making a spectacular reflective foreground to the weather hills.
The next day we bused to where the ords river issued from lake Aryle, and boated down the river back to Kununurra. A beautiful flat bottommed craft with thre V8 outboards, and a canvass canopy to sit under - a whole busload of us. Then drifting or powering down the river, stopping at times to look more closely at the gorge cliffs, a sunning croc, bat colony or jsut the general view. ASbout 50 kms on the water - lovely way to spend some hours. Auusies love their gorges - give a town a gorge nearby and they are pumping it up with billbords, visitor centres, tour operators, boats and maybe even a chopper or two. All reasonably similar, say a couple of hundred feet of steep sided, reddish, weathered rock, with a muddy river beneath. 'Spekkie'claim the locals (spectacular).
The next day, much anticipated, we flew, very early, into the Bungle Bungles, an island of weathered sandstone in a sea of flat plains, south of Kununurra. Starting from an already remote town, the hours flight south takes you further and further into the largely uninhabited interior, over a beautiful terrain of plains and crumpled ridges, flat topped blocks and steep, cliffed escarpments, all in sandstone red, yellow and black. After crossing the massive Lake Argyle,the Bungles came slowly into view, a 45x35km table of raised sandstone, s
tanding alone in a desert plain backed by an endless horizon. The plateau is exceptional because its strikingly and uniquely weathered at it's margins. We flew over it then landed at its SW corner for a days exploring on the ground, with a chopper flight and then evening return.
The day made a tremendous impression on us - its sense of remoteness and just the sheer beauty of the place, with its flat upper plateau, deep faulted narrow valleys, and the way it is weathered on its margins into a sea of beehive, dome and ridge shapes, all in striking horizontal red, yellow and black banding. The Bungles are also an icon of indigenous prehistory, with something like 20,000 years of confirmed Aboriginal occupation. Most of the region remains a wilderness area with no entry permitted - suddenly the dreamng became a reality because there it is in front of you; a place of mystery and imagination.
For our first trip we drove to an entry point and walked into a publically open section of the beehived margins. Hard to really capture it with the camera I think it would take time and lighting opportunities to catch the impact of the place. Not totally comfortable in the beating sun and heat, even if we were seeing it at a cooler time of year. A highlight was walking into one of the faulted, steep sided valleys that split the escarpement, to Cathedral Cave, where it opens to a large amphitheatre with a curved, sloping overhung roof, and a pool of water. A spectacle, with awesome accoustics where a whisper just carries. Hard to not be thinking most of the time about early aboriginal use of the site - cooler in the shade, with water and shelter. What a place to camp. What a though to imagine the sound of chanting and singing, 10 thousand years ago.
The nect visit was to another area of the Bungles where the plateau had fractured into larger blocks so had weathered into more massive cliffs and deep cut gullies. We walked up one, Emu Creek, until we were dots at the base of a narrow passage, soaring either side of us. This area in particular had a species of Palm growing from shelves and cracks on the cliff faces, and on the debris fans at the base. Lower down the flatland vegetation of Eucalyptus took over. The effect of landform and vegetation was like some window on the apst - Pteridactyls might well have been soaring overhead and collosal dragonflies buzzing in the heat.
We returned to the airstrip for big thrill #1 a 48 minute flight in a small chopper (Robson 500)? with seats for two in the back and no side doors. Apocolyse now, held in by waist belt only, foot on the door edge, skid immediately below then nothing! We flew up the margin briefly then cut over the plateau, deviating to visit landmarks and bending the chopper sideways and around for the best photos. We also flew to the furthest northern end to the most remote and forbidden parts of the plateau, then wove our way home, low and slow, trying to take it all in. Not really possible we decided: glad I have photos and videos of a place I might wonder if I really saw, or not. Finally a magic flight back out to Kununurra, light low, golden and throwing shadows - even the forested flatlands were a mosaic of shadows. We arrived at dusk and it was over, a days glimpse of a strange and wonderful place.
The next day we collected a rental car and started a drive, ultimately back to Darwin, via Kakadu National Park. Long straight roads, occassional lines of hills, and stopping to photograph the ever diminishing sight of a Baobab. Quite mesmerising driing for so many hours through this relatively unchanging terrain. Stopping occasionally to stand beside the road, to watch and listen to whatever is going on. Most creeks with the standard crocodile warning signs - just as well they look like tempting places to walk.
I am also completely over the desire to drive the ring road around Australia, despite the love of driving these long stretches. They are clogged, and im not exagerating, with 'grey beards' - retired aussies and their missuses, in 4WD or campervans, roof stacked with belongings like the beverley hillbilles, often towing a caravan or trailer, tinnie (aluminium dingle) often topping the whole show off. The rise early from their camping grounds, and grind out the next 300km at 90km an hour, sometimes in columns. Both direction. Communal spirited, they congregate in picnic spots and stopovers, in droves, and by mid afternoon, not too late, are settled into camping grounds, steak and chip and beer dispensaries, in towns dotted along the route. We discovered, talking to some, that its every aussie working mans dream to head off on retirement, missus in tow, to free lance it round the perimeter road and inland arterial roads. The blokes seem to stop shaving as a badge of being on the road, and what fascination in the long discourses on where they've been and the merits of the Z450 Campervan etc. Reminiscent of the hippy 'on the road again'lifestyle, minus the sex, drugs and rock and roll. Anyway where im going with this is the roads are not empty they are surprisingly busy, until you turn of the beaten track. And if you go on a bus tour such as we did in Kununurra for a day, stand by to do it in the company of the above.
The other shock was the French tourists. Very evident in Thailand, and easily spotted because they are all leaning into each other, talking and gesticulating like a truckload of non swimmers emptied into a pond. Bloody hell they were also there in force in Oz. Busloads, van loads, restaurant loads. Not sure why it made such an impression - maybe any clan en masses is not so attractive? Plus they all huddle amongst their own, with very limited external interaction. One thing i really noticed with the french groups however - very inclusive of and affectionate towards their children.
On day 1 of the drive we finished in Katherine, and stayed in a grubby room somewhere. Very fussy, that Shanti! But it was a crash to bed then up for day 2, which would take us to Pine Creek then on to Kakadu. Pine Creek boasted a water garden, which i suppose it was in the strictest sense (some grubby ponds in a dry park with a few trees). But we needed a break and followed the noise of some birds, Shanti under umbrella in the beating sun. Rainbow lorrikeets were bathing under a garden sprinkler, and we could walk in quite close and enjoy one of the most colorful and engaging of the parokeets. Life is a lark, with shreeks, squabbles, acrobatics and full on action, with the lorrikeets. They entertained us for some time, plus the Corellas that were around - more sober but also an intelligent and enquiring bird. Thoughtfully there was a pub nearby, as there often seems to be, so a cold one and on our way.
The turn off to Kakadu, along the Kakadu highway was immediately noticed as non grey beard trail country. Vanished. Why? Steak and chip outlets limited? Camp fees too high? Who knows but the traffic thinned out. We were in national prk but to our surprise most of it was either on fore or recently burned. We figured at least 50% of th drive was through blackened scrubland, and we drove through several fore fronts and areas where the roqdside was smoking or visibly burning. In the first instnce we thought we shoiuld turn back but other trffic was not so we proceeded. The fire thing is facinating and source of strong debate in the Northern Territories. The bush is fire adapted, but the idea is it should be controlled. Opinions vary on whether it is controlled or uncontrolsled, sensible or madnss. Personlly i cant believe that burning everything every year i a good idea, or is what the lnd is adapted to. Anyway our Lodge, at Cooinda, was in a wetland area so not burning although I smelt smoke at night.
First morning at the lodge was a dawn trip on Yellow waters, a nearby wetland. We had no idea what an exceptional place it was. A short drive to the waters edge, then into a boat with maybe 20 others to cruise the waterways. Croc warnings including not trailing arms over the side. And large slties there were, everywhere. These drowned wetlnds, with islands of trees an other taller vegetaion run as far as the eye can see. As the sun rose the plce teemed with birdlife - we agreed we had seen as much there, in a short period of time, as anywhere. Wildfowl on the wing and calling, bitterns lurking under cover on the waters edge, white heron and vsrients literqlly everywhere, kingfishers, ibises, Jabaru storks and even the Brolga Crane. The shrubberies also with birds calling and moving about - flycatchers, Bee eaters, and more. In the air Kites and ospreys, and other raptors.
The salties impressed, formidable and sizeable crocoddiles, lurking with nose out and sometimes gliding through the water. We saw many bank margins with 'slides' where they enter and exit the water, and the captian regaled us with tales of seeing them take pigs and buffola. We also saw wild horses, which persist in the area. Quite a special experience to see dawn break over that very luxurient waterway and it was over too soon. But later that day we reWurned to the jetty and followed a short boardwalk, seeing some more of the area. we got close to a Satin?? Kingfisher, other new birds, and even found a snake, one of four snakes we saw in the wild in the NT. The second expedition in Kakadu was to visit two of their renowned water attractions, the twin falls and the Jim Jim Falls, which come off the escarpment on the edge of the Arman plteau. (Armanland). A long day over bumpy gravel roads and FMD the driver and guide was French, giving long commentaries in French and less comprtehensible one in English. But she was a darling and as the day continued eased into a wonderful day. The Jim Jim falls in particular, involving a Km or so of rough walkingh up a gorge, then into a series of pools finished by a 2,000ft cirque, from which the falls arose. Again a very cherished aboriginal site, so very careful management of the area to ensure ongoing cooperation of the indigenous landowners. For example no light aircraft overhead. This was definitely a gorge of merit, we swam in an upper pool (lower down they are a croc hazard) and lay back nd watched the fine strands of water fall 2000 ft, which they did most beautifully. Below the cirque the valey floor was a jumble of large roks shed from the surrounding cliffs, rather like being in the steep terrain of the Darrens, except 32 degrees in midwinter. Photos will hopefully surpass the words but its one of those places you walk into and have the feeling you are somewhere very special.
Day 3 Kakadu we visited the nearby town of Jabiru, for an hours flight over Armanland. We had heard many references to the place but never a proper explanation or any real understanding what the place was. The aircraft was an Aussie made single engined workhorse, same as flown into the Bungles. We only had one other passenger who went up front beside the pilot so we had the small cabin to ourselves. Arms land is a raised plateau with spectacular escarpment bordering Kakadu, which we had already seen in the form of the Jim Jim falls. We flew along the escarpment, steep, cliffed and eroded, then onto the plateau itself a wilderness area, largely uninhabited, and an aboriginal homeland. Cut up by faults, ranges of hills and magnificently eroded wild country, dotted with dry forests. A large river system, the Alligator river drains from it, forming massive wetlands on the seaward side of the plateau, again being aboriginal homeland although largely uninhabited. So from extremely rough hilly country the flight took us over these seemingly endless wetlands, beautiful but eeirie to fly low over marshes, billabongs, channels and islands of taller vegetation, as far as the eye could see. Almost a relief to finally exit this area over solid ground where you could at least consider eating foot compared to the croc infested wetlands. Returning to Jabiru we finished with a bypass, at a respectable distance, from the aboriginal site known as the white cliffs (????). Here, the winged creature who shaped the world during the dreamtime, finished, exhausted, and laid to rest in a depression above and behind the cliffs, it's blood staining the walls and remaining there till today. It's a sacred site that no person aboriginal or otherwise may visit, and a spectacular landmark of vertical, light colored cliffs on the plateau edge, stained with vertical streaks. There is something about any place people don't go, given there are so few such places, and the barren Armenland and these cliffs exemplify that. We sat and watched them later from Jabiru, contemplating our now over holiday, and what we might take back by way of memories, to home and work. These sight of these cliffs - yes.
We enjoyed a final night at the Gagaju lodge in Cooinda, with the smell of wood smoke creeping into the room in the cool of night, and the sound of the barking Owl.
Our final drive was to Darwin, via the Armandland highway. A final few hours on the road to enjoy, including crossing griots branches of the Alligator river as it headed to the coast. Croc signs on all of them and yes crocs to see on the riverbank, when we stopped to look. It was a crocodile sort of days as we had arranged to stop nearer Darwin and go on a 1 hour trip where they feed the crocs on the river, from your boat. We were not long putting up the wide, brown channel when the first saltie he'd us, gliding through the water with a waving action. The boat hand dangled a lump of red meet from a long pole and the croc lunged up at it, lifting probably two thirds of it's body out of the water. So don't bother sitting even several metros above the water, they can still get ya! Now we could understand why leaning over a boat, dangling arms or being in too small a craft may not be a good idea. Regaled with tales of who got attacked, where and when etc , how fast they can swim, run, how long stay under water and all the rest we watched respectfully while several other crocs he'd us and whacked targets metros out of the water. On the bird front we also saw an Osprey fly past the boat and Black Kites were feed by throwing scraps into the air as they rocketed past the boat. A wild python lounging near the boat ramp and some great birdlife in the vicinity completed there'll but we had to push on to Darwin, drop off the car, organize ourselves and prepare for the travel home.
END
Wednesday, August 10, 2011
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Doi Inthanon National Park, 21-23 July
Tony and Aoy picked us up from our Chiang Mai hotel, about 5.30 am. We drove into Doi Inthanon, which has Thailands highest mountain at about 8'000 ft. The trip was reasonably wet, ranging from downpours to drizzle, and that's how it was for 3 days.
We drove first to our accommodation, 'Mr Daengs Birdwatching .
Centre'. Mr Daengs and his family were delightful, and attentive hosts and our cooks for the 3 days. The area is more remote and largely subsistence farming in patches and villages carved out of the forest, so accommodation was very basic and uncomfortable by our standards, particularly in the wet. We used the centre as a base for shorter trips up various roadways, stopping at intervals to look for birdlife. Again there were many wonders to be seen, often colorful. Examples included the Collared Falconette, a truly tiny falcon species perching on tree tops, colorful kingfishers, intensely colored Niltavas and Sunbirds, and many others.
I'm not a bird sighting collector any more than being a train spotter, so the rapid fire sightings meant less than the closer and more extended encounters. One such event stands out for both of us - a visit to the top of Doi Inthanon, in the rain, to it's summit forests and to meet a very special resident the White Browed Shortwing (it needs a better, more fitting name).
The forest at 8,000 ft is still tall, with large trees. But the understory includes Rhododendrons such as R. arboreum, being one of the earliest species bought to the west ( as seed), grown here and used as a parent for many of the early hybrids that were bred. We have the species in our garden at Portobello.
In the wet, and cooler at that altitude (10 degrees C when we were there), it's a dark and striking forest. We hunted for some time for the target inhabitant, a robin like bird that lives on the forest floor. Tony called one in, with his tape. It sang the most exquisitely sweet and tuneful refrain, like a dunnock in terms of duration and sweetness, but with a rich and warm melodic quality. But try as we might we could not sight it and left that area, taking a break in a nearby clearing. As we approached the clearing we suddenly had glimpses of the bird, as the most fleeting of shadows in the forest floor, or perhaps just a flicker of light. In the clearing the birds - they were a pair - came out in the open and we had a long encounter, reminiscent of an NZ Robin encounter when the bird trustingly approaches you. The shortwing male is larger than our robin but otherwise not unlike it in posture. It has a very dark, slate blue plumage and prominent, even comical white eyebrows, being the only thing you can make out when in a dark shadow. The female was brown, like the leaf litter.
While the bird itself might not necessarily make the global bird star annual calendar, it's enchanting secretiveness and then trusting approach, it's habit of slipping in and out of view between the dark and less dark parts of the forest floor, it's exceedingly beautiful song emitted in bursts from the gloomy depths of this old forest, made it quite an experience and we keep referring to it and remembering it a great deal.
Other experiences in Doi Inthanon included enjoying the invertebrate life, my favorite being a small hunting spider (like the Trites species at home) but with an incomprehensible metallic body covering. How does it do that, on soft body parts such as the abdomen, where there is no rigid body shell such as for a shiny beetle? Another favorite was a cicada that, if you got close, the noise was too loud to bear and you covered you ears unless they split!
Somewhat a factor on the trip was however the musty bedroom, dank sheet less beds, wet bathroom, lack of clothes washing or drying facilities and awful plumbing of the room we returned to at the end of two long days in the field. So the flight out of Chiang Mai, carrying much wet and smelly clothing was a relief, even if it was to be the start of a long period of travel, with brief stopovers in Bangkok and Singapore, then a disgusting nighttime flight on Jetstar to Darwin, spitting us out at about 4.30 in the morning, for the last leg of the trip, in the Northern Territory.
We drove first to our accommodation, 'Mr Daengs Birdwatching .
Centre'. Mr Daengs and his family were delightful, and attentive hosts and our cooks for the 3 days. The area is more remote and largely subsistence farming in patches and villages carved out of the forest, so accommodation was very basic and uncomfortable by our standards, particularly in the wet. We used the centre as a base for shorter trips up various roadways, stopping at intervals to look for birdlife. Again there were many wonders to be seen, often colorful. Examples included the Collared Falconette, a truly tiny falcon species perching on tree tops, colorful kingfishers, intensely colored Niltavas and Sunbirds, and many others.
I'm not a bird sighting collector any more than being a train spotter, so the rapid fire sightings meant less than the closer and more extended encounters. One such event stands out for both of us - a visit to the top of Doi Inthanon, in the rain, to it's summit forests and to meet a very special resident the White Browed Shortwing (it needs a better, more fitting name).
The forest at 8,000 ft is still tall, with large trees. But the understory includes Rhododendrons such as R. arboreum, being one of the earliest species bought to the west ( as seed), grown here and used as a parent for many of the early hybrids that were bred. We have the species in our garden at Portobello.
In the wet, and cooler at that altitude (10 degrees C when we were there), it's a dark and striking forest. We hunted for some time for the target inhabitant, a robin like bird that lives on the forest floor. Tony called one in, with his tape. It sang the most exquisitely sweet and tuneful refrain, like a dunnock in terms of duration and sweetness, but with a rich and warm melodic quality. But try as we might we could not sight it and left that area, taking a break in a nearby clearing. As we approached the clearing we suddenly had glimpses of the bird, as the most fleeting of shadows in the forest floor, or perhaps just a flicker of light. In the clearing the birds - they were a pair - came out in the open and we had a long encounter, reminiscent of an NZ Robin encounter when the bird trustingly approaches you. The shortwing male is larger than our robin but otherwise not unlike it in posture. It has a very dark, slate blue plumage and prominent, even comical white eyebrows, being the only thing you can make out when in a dark shadow. The female was brown, like the leaf litter.
While the bird itself might not necessarily make the global bird star annual calendar, it's enchanting secretiveness and then trusting approach, it's habit of slipping in and out of view between the dark and less dark parts of the forest floor, it's exceedingly beautiful song emitted in bursts from the gloomy depths of this old forest, made it quite an experience and we keep referring to it and remembering it a great deal.
Other experiences in Doi Inthanon included enjoying the invertebrate life, my favorite being a small hunting spider (like the Trites species at home) but with an incomprehensible metallic body covering. How does it do that, on soft body parts such as the abdomen, where there is no rigid body shell such as for a shiny beetle? Another favorite was a cicada that, if you got close, the noise was too loud to bear and you covered you ears unless they split!
Somewhat a factor on the trip was however the musty bedroom, dank sheet less beds, wet bathroom, lack of clothes washing or drying facilities and awful plumbing of the room we returned to at the end of two long days in the field. So the flight out of Chiang Mai, carrying much wet and smelly clothing was a relief, even if it was to be the start of a long period of travel, with brief stopovers in Bangkok and Singapore, then a disgusting nighttime flight on Jetstar to Darwin, spitting us out at about 4.30 in the morning, for the last leg of the trip, in the Northern Territory.
Chiang Mai, 19-20 July.
For the two days in Chiang Mai, York and Sunset were also staying on, so we could hook up with them. Elephants, Tigers and Snakes were the objective, although the city itself also surprised us with what it offered.
We drove on the first morning to an elephant camp, in the hills and an hour from the city. There we saw these marvelous animals - about 80 live there and are used as domestic labour, ceremonial training and occasions, and for visitors. They put on a demo and thrilled the crowd by kicking soccer balls (well), showing how lumber is extracted and stacked, and painting pictures. That last event involved several elephants lining up in front of their own canvas and painting something maybe a 6 year old human could do. Done with great delicacy and accuracy of brush handling, Then we rode for maybe 40 minutes on a canopy on an elephant, swaying our way up through the village and into it's marginal woodlands. So very silent. The elephant puts it's foot down noiselessly and gently, no wonder they can slide like shadows through the jungle.
We were carrying bunches of sugar cane and occasionally the elephant would probe hopefully in our direction, for something to chew on. A elephant in front had a poop which I had to photograph. Each plop, and there were many, was half bucket sized and hit the ground with a thud. Maybe 20 litres of urine - what a spectacle. The mahout successfully steered the elephants backside onto the road margin, where the consequences were less of a traffic hazard. Our Mahout was a small man, with a penetrating but musical voice. He called and guided the elephant throughout, occasionally breaking into happy song.
Next we visited a Tiger sanctuary, where cubs are raised and some of the young ones are well enough disposed for you to enter their compound and pat them, under supervision (for a fee of course!) We weren't going to miss that so were soon able to sit and pat, under strict supervision (and having signed an accident disclaimer) two different Tigers. One was a 120 kg 8 nth old female, the other a 21 mth 150kg male. The female would grow to 200kg the male to 250 kg. Enormous heads, golden eyes which said 'I may consider eating you', plate sized paws and exceedingly beautifully black striping on a golden coat. We approached the cats from behind, could sit behind them and pat their back or flank. A joy and adrenaline rush to be so close to one of the great icons of the natural world, and we managed to Skype with Henry, Grace and Iris to try to share a bit of the experience.
On to a snake house, probably not the most salubrious one in Chiang Mai, where a floor show was underway. A small group of visitors sat around a small cement floor with a very low 30 cm high wall, and bought out various snakes including the Asiatic cobra- an impressively beautiful dark black backed snake that coils or waves his rear half so he can lift the front half upright and spread the hood. Beady dark eyes, intensely alert, and immediately pivoting to face any movement within several metres. The 'highlight' of the show (accompanied by a microphone commentary from a strange youth) involved wrestling a python in a water tank, including getting as much of the snake as possible wrapped around the wrestlers neck. Lots of concerned babble from the commentator followed by great relief at the wrestlers survival and an impassioned request for payments from the audience for what they have just seen!
The compound housed the majestic King Cobra, a truly awesome snake of great size and all the aggression of the Asiatic cobra. They also had a python that we could handle, after washing it under a tap as it was drizzling and the ground was muddy. Again a much anticipated experience, to handle such an animal.
York was an invaluable guide and also took us to local jade manufacturing and silk manufacturing locations, where we saw the items being produced. The great and expensive jade items were enormous frothy dragons and other elaborate bits of exotica. The silk worms were enchanting - we saw the moths laying eggs, the raising of the caterpillars, and where the cocoons were woven by the mature caterpillars, on mass. The real surprise however was the spinning of the cocoons into a long thread. Handmade wooden equipment unravelled each cocoon in the most fine, spider thread thickness, to produce spools of magically light thread then dyed and woven on a wooden loom. Sometimes then printed on. What an achievement to develop this process so long ago, pre industrial, hand made equipment only, to produce what is still probably still the most exceptional and beautiful natural fabric.
York also introduced us to the 'Fish Spa', including the fish doctor where tanks of fish nibble your feet. Abominably tickly to start with, then delicious. Comfortable seats, a beer or green tea. Could be a franchise opportunity for someone? 'Rather be me than the fish' was my other thought, at the time!
Chiang Mai was a memorable destination that I would go back to. We finished off with a superb meal at riverside, and sucked in a deep breath for the onset of National Parks part 2 - Doi Inthanon.
We drove on the first morning to an elephant camp, in the hills and an hour from the city. There we saw these marvelous animals - about 80 live there and are used as domestic labour, ceremonial training and occasions, and for visitors. They put on a demo and thrilled the crowd by kicking soccer balls (well), showing how lumber is extracted and stacked, and painting pictures. That last event involved several elephants lining up in front of their own canvas and painting something maybe a 6 year old human could do. Done with great delicacy and accuracy of brush handling, Then we rode for maybe 40 minutes on a canopy on an elephant, swaying our way up through the village and into it's marginal woodlands. So very silent. The elephant puts it's foot down noiselessly and gently, no wonder they can slide like shadows through the jungle.
We were carrying bunches of sugar cane and occasionally the elephant would probe hopefully in our direction, for something to chew on. A elephant in front had a poop which I had to photograph. Each plop, and there were many, was half bucket sized and hit the ground with a thud. Maybe 20 litres of urine - what a spectacle. The mahout successfully steered the elephants backside onto the road margin, where the consequences were less of a traffic hazard. Our Mahout was a small man, with a penetrating but musical voice. He called and guided the elephant throughout, occasionally breaking into happy song.
Next we visited a Tiger sanctuary, where cubs are raised and some of the young ones are well enough disposed for you to enter their compound and pat them, under supervision (for a fee of course!) We weren't going to miss that so were soon able to sit and pat, under strict supervision (and having signed an accident disclaimer) two different Tigers. One was a 120 kg 8 nth old female, the other a 21 mth 150kg male. The female would grow to 200kg the male to 250 kg. Enormous heads, golden eyes which said 'I may consider eating you', plate sized paws and exceedingly beautifully black striping on a golden coat. We approached the cats from behind, could sit behind them and pat their back or flank. A joy and adrenaline rush to be so close to one of the great icons of the natural world, and we managed to Skype with Henry, Grace and Iris to try to share a bit of the experience.
On to a snake house, probably not the most salubrious one in Chiang Mai, where a floor show was underway. A small group of visitors sat around a small cement floor with a very low 30 cm high wall, and bought out various snakes including the Asiatic cobra- an impressively beautiful dark black backed snake that coils or waves his rear half so he can lift the front half upright and spread the hood. Beady dark eyes, intensely alert, and immediately pivoting to face any movement within several metres. The 'highlight' of the show (accompanied by a microphone commentary from a strange youth) involved wrestling a python in a water tank, including getting as much of the snake as possible wrapped around the wrestlers neck. Lots of concerned babble from the commentator followed by great relief at the wrestlers survival and an impassioned request for payments from the audience for what they have just seen!
The compound housed the majestic King Cobra, a truly awesome snake of great size and all the aggression of the Asiatic cobra. They also had a python that we could handle, after washing it under a tap as it was drizzling and the ground was muddy. Again a much anticipated experience, to handle such an animal.
York was an invaluable guide and also took us to local jade manufacturing and silk manufacturing locations, where we saw the items being produced. The great and expensive jade items were enormous frothy dragons and other elaborate bits of exotica. The silk worms were enchanting - we saw the moths laying eggs, the raising of the caterpillars, and where the cocoons were woven by the mature caterpillars, on mass. The real surprise however was the spinning of the cocoons into a long thread. Handmade wooden equipment unravelled each cocoon in the most fine, spider thread thickness, to produce spools of magically light thread then dyed and woven on a wooden loom. Sometimes then printed on. What an achievement to develop this process so long ago, pre industrial, hand made equipment only, to produce what is still probably still the most exceptional and beautiful natural fabric.
York also introduced us to the 'Fish Spa', including the fish doctor where tanks of fish nibble your feet. Abominably tickly to start with, then delicious. Comfortable seats, a beer or green tea. Could be a franchise opportunity for someone? 'Rather be me than the fish' was my other thought, at the time!
Chiang Mai was a memorable destination that I would go back to. We finished off with a superb meal at riverside, and sucked in a deep breath for the onset of National Parks part 2 - Doi Inthanon.
Ayutthaya to Chiang Mai, via Sukothai, by road.
Tony Eagle Eye left us and York, our next guide and driver 'Sunset' (Sunrise a possible better option?) picked us up, at the slightly more civilized time of 9 am. Of to a good start we thought.
Ayutthaya was an earlier capital, before the Bangkok was drained and canalled and the better port attracted the development of the present capital. Prior to that, boat traffic from abroad approached Ayuthaya by river and it was a vey major far east trading centre. In the 13th century an island region in the city was built as an imperial enclave, and filled with riches and the greatest of the architectural heritage at the time. Wonderful courtyards, soaring stupas and prangs (constructions with a religious or cultural purpose, such as housing a relic of the Buddha), and magnificent Buddha statues, enormous, stone and plaster constructed and originally gold covered. This imperial site was ransacked by Burmese invaders who smashed what they could but often leaving the Buddhas, except for lighting fires around them to melt off the gold. Once abandoned the site was overcome with vegetation until cleared and opened as a world heritage site, in recent times. A tremendous thrill to walk through this wonderful old city, some parts relatively intact others almost leveled to the ground.
We drove to Sukhothai, further north, and the next day visited a similar location - about a 13th century city centre, protected by moat and wall and being a royal precinct and a working Buddhist temple complex in it's day. We say Buddhist but it's much more complex as Thailand was a melting pot of incoming influences and seemed to us to be some incomprehensible amalgam of Hindu, Buddhist, Khymer and pagan superstitions. Wonderfully colorful, rich and exotic! Sukhothai, unlike Ayutthaya, has not been physically smashed by invasion so only the ravages of time had eroded it to it's current state. Valuables had been looted and gold burned off the statues but otherwise it felt more intact and we adored wandering it's atmospheric, powerfully structured, formally laid out buildings and grounds. Not many people about and a treat for the camera!
The final drive north was through increasingly hilly terrain, with family sized plots of rice fields and other produce. We drove into the northern city of Chiang Mai, with two days available before the next National Park trip with Tony and Aoy was to begin.
Ayutthaya was an earlier capital, before the Bangkok was drained and canalled and the better port attracted the development of the present capital. Prior to that, boat traffic from abroad approached Ayuthaya by river and it was a vey major far east trading centre. In the 13th century an island region in the city was built as an imperial enclave, and filled with riches and the greatest of the architectural heritage at the time. Wonderful courtyards, soaring stupas and prangs (constructions with a religious or cultural purpose, such as housing a relic of the Buddha), and magnificent Buddha statues, enormous, stone and plaster constructed and originally gold covered. This imperial site was ransacked by Burmese invaders who smashed what they could but often leaving the Buddhas, except for lighting fires around them to melt off the gold. Once abandoned the site was overcome with vegetation until cleared and opened as a world heritage site, in recent times. A tremendous thrill to walk through this wonderful old city, some parts relatively intact others almost leveled to the ground.
We drove to Sukhothai, further north, and the next day visited a similar location - about a 13th century city centre, protected by moat and wall and being a royal precinct and a working Buddhist temple complex in it's day. We say Buddhist but it's much more complex as Thailand was a melting pot of incoming influences and seemed to us to be some incomprehensible amalgam of Hindu, Buddhist, Khymer and pagan superstitions. Wonderfully colorful, rich and exotic! Sukhothai, unlike Ayutthaya, has not been physically smashed by invasion so only the ravages of time had eroded it to it's current state. Valuables had been looted and gold burned off the statues but otherwise it felt more intact and we adored wandering it's atmospheric, powerfully structured, formally laid out buildings and grounds. Not many people about and a treat for the camera!
The final drive north was through increasingly hilly terrain, with family sized plots of rice fields and other produce. We drove into the northern city of Chiang Mai, with two days available before the next National Park trip with Tony and Aoy was to begin.
Khao Yai national park 15-17 July '11
Tony our guide picked us up from the Pathumwan Princess at 5 am, for the half day drive to the park. His partner- girlfriend or whatever drove us, in a Pajero 4wd. Absolutely delightful girl called Aoy. The outskirts of Bangkok are as grotty as you would expect, then the moderate hills of the park approached, forest covered. It was showery, and we discovered it was a national holiday and Bangkok citizens would likely head in droves to the park - and they did. We stopped repeatedly at roadside venues to look at the hills, where wild tigers and elephants still live, and to see some of the incredible birdlife. It included 3 species of hornbill, the Asian equivalent of the South American Toucan. The Hornbills are larger, less graceful but still impressive and noisy denizens of the upper canopy. We were also thrilled to hear and see Gibbons, those long armed aerialists that swing through the trees. Their calling is wonderful - musical whoops and hollering that carries a long way. There were also pig tailed Macaques at roadside, materializing out of the bush when we stopped the vehicle. 'Very bad' we were told - don't put any item down, leave a car door open or let one approach closely. On several occasions we encountered larger troops of these monkeys on the road, bringing traffic to a standstill. Absolute indifference on the part of the Macaques, sitting and a walking where they chose. There were also wild deer, Samba, seen regularly in forest openings.
We walked in the forest on later occasions but for day 1 it was all roadside. There was continual traffic to contend with but we still saw wonderful birdlife such as the two species of Trogon that live there, colorful but elusive. Being wet there were leeches even at roadside. We rocked in our new gaiters, well drenched in repellant, although Shanti discovered one bloody splotch on her knee that night where one had crawled up. We watched them closely they can move rapidly, covering a metre of ground in maybe 20 seconds then once on you can climb quickly until they find a place to bite.
Apparently we had to get away early the next morning, and another guide turned up for a free ride maybe, and we drove back into the forest. This time we walked into the forest and were drowned by cicada noise and Gibbons whooping. We were chasing the tiny forest kIngfisher, to no good effect, but loved the experience of being in this untouched part of the forest. After lunch in a local camping ground again (rice, with several dishes of accompaniments, some spicy), we drove to our final destination for the day, a bat cave. On dusk, bats started emerging then flew in an unbroken stream, with an audible rush like water and sometimes a burst of staccato chattering from a bat that strayed closed. Early in the piece a peregrine falcon turned up and dive bombed the column otherwise it was just the extraordinary sight of the endless bats issuing into a hot, spectacularly clouded evening sky. It takes over an hour for the millions of bats to all emerge.
About a 16 hour day before we hit bed that night, but at least this time we did not have to contend with a nearby barking dog going off half the night.
Apparently we had to get away very early the next morning, to see water birds at a large irrigation dam, on the way to our end of trip drop off at the city of Ayuthaya. The highlight of the day was lunch. We stopped at a fairly shabby looking location and climbed steps to a covered deck, right beside and within touching distance of one of those extraordinary messes of wires that festoon power poles country wide. Being a fresh water fishery area we tried some whole fish dishes, with various bowls of curry pastes, and the usual wonderful thin soup of cocoanut milk, ginger, lemon grass, chili and often a fish head. By evening we finished a long day dropped of in Ayuthaya, the former capital of Thailand in the days it was called Siam.
We walked in the forest on later occasions but for day 1 it was all roadside. There was continual traffic to contend with but we still saw wonderful birdlife such as the two species of Trogon that live there, colorful but elusive. Being wet there were leeches even at roadside. We rocked in our new gaiters, well drenched in repellant, although Shanti discovered one bloody splotch on her knee that night where one had crawled up. We watched them closely they can move rapidly, covering a metre of ground in maybe 20 seconds then once on you can climb quickly until they find a place to bite.
Apparently we had to get away early the next morning, and another guide turned up for a free ride maybe, and we drove back into the forest. This time we walked into the forest and were drowned by cicada noise and Gibbons whooping. We were chasing the tiny forest kIngfisher, to no good effect, but loved the experience of being in this untouched part of the forest. After lunch in a local camping ground again (rice, with several dishes of accompaniments, some spicy), we drove to our final destination for the day, a bat cave. On dusk, bats started emerging then flew in an unbroken stream, with an audible rush like water and sometimes a burst of staccato chattering from a bat that strayed closed. Early in the piece a peregrine falcon turned up and dive bombed the column otherwise it was just the extraordinary sight of the endless bats issuing into a hot, spectacularly clouded evening sky. It takes over an hour for the millions of bats to all emerge.
About a 16 hour day before we hit bed that night, but at least this time we did not have to contend with a nearby barking dog going off half the night.
Apparently we had to get away very early the next morning, to see water birds at a large irrigation dam, on the way to our end of trip drop off at the city of Ayuthaya. The highlight of the day was lunch. We stopped at a fairly shabby looking location and climbed steps to a covered deck, right beside and within touching distance of one of those extraordinary messes of wires that festoon power poles country wide. Being a fresh water fishery area we tried some whole fish dishes, with various bowls of curry pastes, and the usual wonderful thin soup of cocoanut milk, ginger, lemon grass, chili and often a fish head. By evening we finished a long day dropped of in Ayuthaya, the former capital of Thailand in the days it was called Siam.
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Bangkok days 2-4
Very remiss keeping up with travel blog but generally too rooted at end of day, the 16 hour session yesterday being a case in point. But it should encourage brevity - highlights only!
On day 2 Bangkok we had a full day planned trip with a guide and driver. We headed west after an early rise and drove through canal crisscrossed flatlands, and onto another powered longboat to explore the area and visit a 'floating market'. The canal area was extensive but more rural, lined with homes and trees, without the city squalor. Homes had boats outside them sometimes hoisted out of the water, and there was domestic boat traffic put putting around. Quite charming and colorful, with narrow tree covered canal lanes, and plenty of flowers, orchards and birdlife. As we approached the market area we passed open boats stacked with vegetables and fruits and by the time we were in the market it was congested chaos. Boats ranged in size and type, including simple paddled canoes stacked to the gunnels with produced and often paddled by an elderly character. Photos show the color and the spectacle of a community that lives by, moves on and markets on the canals.
In the afternoon we (grudgingly) visited a renowned attraction, the bridge over the river Kwai, being a landmark on the Thailand to Burma railway built in WW2 by POW's of the Japanese, who were moving down through SW Asia. It's a story of terrible brutality and the museum was upsetting, not to mention the acres of close set graves in front of it where some of the identified Allied casualties were relocated. But it doesn't hurt to see what humans got up to in the recent past and see where thousands of POW's finished their days, and in what a state. You wouldnt want to be Japanese and visit the place it pulled no punches on the depravity of their conduct.
The bridge itself was bombed by the allies but has been reconstructed. We walked over it then trained up a stretch of the rail line, now a commuting track for locals and attraction for visitors, before being collected by our driver for return to BK.
Days 3 and 4 we had nothing planned except to dive into the city and see what happened. So we jumped in a Tuk Tuk (3 wheetr bike) - big mistake. The drivers frequent their local patches and have arrangements with many local retailers for commissions on tourists bought to the shops in question. The drivers were a nightmare, scoundrels as were most of the related shops selling dodgy wares such as cheap tailoring services or cut price gemstones etc. After several Tuk Tuk experiences and virtual standing battles to get to where we wanted to go we gave up on them and found the sky train network. In the meantime we visited the showcased home of a former American who collected Thai art and whose home has become a museum. We also had to check out some of the Sapphire, ruby, gold silver and jade shops for which the city is famous. That night we dined on a highrise rooftop restaurant, the city around us quite breathtaking at night.
We were staying next to a 7 story shopping centre (MBK centre), and experience in itself. Each floor seemingly endless and packed with shops of all sizes and loaded with people. Next day we started out in the mall then walked to a Thai massage house, to get pummeled for 2 hours. Thai massage includes a lot of postural manipulation and takes getting use to but we emerged into the dripping heat feeling fantastic and continued our walk to a park, where the highlight was seeing water monitors again, fearsome looking brutes swimming in the ponds and lounging water side. That night we extended the tradition of trying each of the three excellent hotel restaurants, before and early night in prep for the first 3 day national park tour. - first up Khao Yai.
On day 2 Bangkok we had a full day planned trip with a guide and driver. We headed west after an early rise and drove through canal crisscrossed flatlands, and onto another powered longboat to explore the area and visit a 'floating market'. The canal area was extensive but more rural, lined with homes and trees, without the city squalor. Homes had boats outside them sometimes hoisted out of the water, and there was domestic boat traffic put putting around. Quite charming and colorful, with narrow tree covered canal lanes, and plenty of flowers, orchards and birdlife. As we approached the market area we passed open boats stacked with vegetables and fruits and by the time we were in the market it was congested chaos. Boats ranged in size and type, including simple paddled canoes stacked to the gunnels with produced and often paddled by an elderly character. Photos show the color and the spectacle of a community that lives by, moves on and markets on the canals.
In the afternoon we (grudgingly) visited a renowned attraction, the bridge over the river Kwai, being a landmark on the Thailand to Burma railway built in WW2 by POW's of the Japanese, who were moving down through SW Asia. It's a story of terrible brutality and the museum was upsetting, not to mention the acres of close set graves in front of it where some of the identified Allied casualties were relocated. But it doesn't hurt to see what humans got up to in the recent past and see where thousands of POW's finished their days, and in what a state. You wouldnt want to be Japanese and visit the place it pulled no punches on the depravity of their conduct.
The bridge itself was bombed by the allies but has been reconstructed. We walked over it then trained up a stretch of the rail line, now a commuting track for locals and attraction for visitors, before being collected by our driver for return to BK.
Days 3 and 4 we had nothing planned except to dive into the city and see what happened. So we jumped in a Tuk Tuk (3 wheetr bike) - big mistake. The drivers frequent their local patches and have arrangements with many local retailers for commissions on tourists bought to the shops in question. The drivers were a nightmare, scoundrels as were most of the related shops selling dodgy wares such as cheap tailoring services or cut price gemstones etc. After several Tuk Tuk experiences and virtual standing battles to get to where we wanted to go we gave up on them and found the sky train network. In the meantime we visited the showcased home of a former American who collected Thai art and whose home has become a museum. We also had to check out some of the Sapphire, ruby, gold silver and jade shops for which the city is famous. That night we dined on a highrise rooftop restaurant, the city around us quite breathtaking at night.
We were staying next to a 7 story shopping centre (MBK centre), and experience in itself. Each floor seemingly endless and packed with shops of all sizes and loaded with people. Next day we started out in the mall then walked to a Thai massage house, to get pummeled for 2 hours. Thai massage includes a lot of postural manipulation and takes getting use to but we emerged into the dripping heat feeling fantastic and continued our walk to a park, where the highlight was seeing water monitors again, fearsome looking brutes swimming in the ponds and lounging water side. That night we extended the tradition of trying each of the three excellent hotel restaurants, before and early night in prep for the first 3 day national park tour. - first up Khao Yai.
Monday, July 11, 2011
Bangkok day 1
We flew into Bangkok late, and by 1.30 in the morning and not yet asleep I was questioning the 9am tour of the city scheduled in the morning. But it was booked so we got our arses out of bed (a fair description of us at the time) but redeemed by breakfast - tropical fruits, coffee, eggs and a slice of glazed ham. Our guide Arty arrived, outstandingly cheerful and keen to get going. We drove 30 kms across town, achieving no obvious change in scenery, then arriving in the Royal District which included the Grand Palace which houses the 'Emerald Buddha'. We were staggered at the place it is frothing with ornate, extravagant buildings, gold plated or ceramic tiled, courtyards with old bonsai trees, various shrines and pulsating with people. They included many visitors but also many Thai nationals visiting it as a place of pilgrimage. The heat was horrendous, survivable under cover but not in the sun, so we bought Shanti an umbrella and I put on a grubby hat I carry with me and we walked on to a berthing area beside a nearby canal, and boarded a motorized longboat. Beautiful craft, long and made of hardwood with a canvass canopy. But most surprisingly - powered by an exposed car engine that drove a long straight shaft with propellor at the end. The boat drivers could lift the prop out of the water and shift it's position like a long oar. They took pride in various theatrics such as steering with their feet, and the guide made several mentions of the James Bond movie that includes a boat chase on these canals, with these vessels. Further indications of that were the drivers waiting for a clear spot to gun the engine which roared and belched smoke. Competition to get ahead of others was also evident so it's not quite a serenade in Venice, despite them also making that comparison.
We boated for nearly an hour, through the rabbit warren canals of the Bangkok flatlands, otherwise packed and teeming with residences and people. It was great fun hurtling along on the water but the sight of people fishing in these filthy canals with teetering wooden buildings lining them the whole way also also kinda gross. We saw various strange sights including a man feeding fish off his balcony. A very large water monitor was also down in the water trying to clamber up the steep bank and beat the fish to it.
By the time we were taxied back to the hotel the eyes were popping and brain in overload, so we went out for lunch and some shopping for a few items, which was not as restful as expected. Not sure what to do tonight - BK is out there pumping but we are still resting up a bit, plus I've seen 'The Hangover' and am not sure how many blocks of this place we could navigate and still get back!
We boated for nearly an hour, through the rabbit warren canals of the Bangkok flatlands, otherwise packed and teeming with residences and people. It was great fun hurtling along on the water but the sight of people fishing in these filthy canals with teetering wooden buildings lining them the whole way also also kinda gross. We saw various strange sights including a man feeding fish off his balcony. A very large water monitor was also down in the water trying to clamber up the steep bank and beat the fish to it.
By the time we were taxied back to the hotel the eyes were popping and brain in overload, so we went out for lunch and some shopping for a few items, which was not as restful as expected. Not sure what to do tonight - BK is out there pumping but we are still resting up a bit, plus I've seen 'The Hangover' and am not sure how many blocks of this place we could navigate and still get back!
Perth and SW Australia 1-10 July '11
We are recovering from our first morning in Bangkok (by lying down), with the evening to plan. but before that - 10 days in Perth and further south with Rose and Elliot.
Hard to remember all we did let alone describe in one blog. The highlight was the company of Rose and Elliot, then add in transport and an itinerary of travel through some wonderful country with nice accommodation, more food and wine than strictly necessary and lots of playing with the camera!
We started with a couple of nights in Perth seeing where Rose and Elliot live, seeing the city and some of their haunts, then we headed south to Margaret River, initially on the freeway then onto a more coastal road. We loved seeing again the red earth and Eucalyptus forests that make driving there such a pleasure. Margaret River has a distinctly coastal feel with it's cooler, lusher vegetation and our accommodation was in a park like setting with a sizable pond in front. We went straight outside with the binocs, to look around, then into town for a meal and the first of a sequence of wine tasting events as we battled round many vineyards over the following two days. Unanimous agreement - wines are good with Cab Sav excelling.
Some of the vineyards are grand and expensive to say the least, others less so and some still family run businesses. but all in a beautiful park like region with stands of tall trees, rolling pasture and a generally well off rural look.
One highlight among many was visiting Lavender Farm - a garden and cafe - and eventually to find the tiny fairy wrens - two species- in residence. A tiny creature with a long tail held up at a rakish angle, and moving in family groups in a constant state of excitement. Life is never dull when you weigh only a few grams and look as enchanting as they do. But a photographic challenge to even get one in the photo, in focus and not blurred or just departing.
Rose and Elliot had also planned a treat, a visit to a bird of prey sanctuary where we were stunned by a display of Kites who flew around their trainer and caught items of food in the air and off the ground. we had a chance to hold one on a gloved arm and view it face to face. This is a bird we will see a lot of in the Darwin region.
The sanitary also had a collection of other raptors, most recovering birds that would be released back into the wild. The owls in particular thrilled us, with a range of specie including the very alien looking and endangered grassland owl from the northern territories.
Rather stunned by that experience we had more to come, including seeing migratory humpbacks very clearly off the coast from out next location in Augusta, then a half day trip getting up close to them by boat. There are plenty around and it seemed to be not a problem to get within 100m of a number of whales as they tracked north, surfacing regularly and showing their backs as they rolled up to breathe and with the occasional flash of a tail.
The coast also included a visit to the Cape Leeuwen lighthouse where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet in the SW corner, along a treacherous reef extending kilometers out to sea. A classic lighthouse beauty, very tall, old, white and sited on a peninsula with sea on both sides. We climbed to the top and saw the original mechanism that rotated the lens, and the lens itself which is still a working unit.
From Augusta we tracked further south to Nornalup, close to Walpole. This took us deep into the southern forests where the Eucalyptus must make some of Australia's greatest forests of tall trees. They are ancient Gondwanaland forests and certainly feel it with their close spaced massive trees and cool, dimly lit interiors. We visited an area where the forest was particularly good, with an elevated walkway, and a ground level trail also.
All this time we were taking our usual interest in the bird life and enjoying in particular some of the species restricted to the area. A few were photographed successfully, many not. Perhaps the best shot was Elliots when we visited the coast near Nornalup (to a place called Conspicuous Cliff). A Nankeen Kestrel came in within meters and hung motionless, in flight, on an updraft.
The final days travel was a longer drive back to Perth but much of it through good forested country, then a last night on the town. Sadly we were off the next day but having had some treasured time together and now feeling somewhat familiar with and appreciative of that south west corner of the continent.
Thanks Rose and Elliot, you planned a memorable trip and looked after us a treat.
S and S xx
Hard to remember all we did let alone describe in one blog. The highlight was the company of Rose and Elliot, then add in transport and an itinerary of travel through some wonderful country with nice accommodation, more food and wine than strictly necessary and lots of playing with the camera!
We started with a couple of nights in Perth seeing where Rose and Elliot live, seeing the city and some of their haunts, then we headed south to Margaret River, initially on the freeway then onto a more coastal road. We loved seeing again the red earth and Eucalyptus forests that make driving there such a pleasure. Margaret River has a distinctly coastal feel with it's cooler, lusher vegetation and our accommodation was in a park like setting with a sizable pond in front. We went straight outside with the binocs, to look around, then into town for a meal and the first of a sequence of wine tasting events as we battled round many vineyards over the following two days. Unanimous agreement - wines are good with Cab Sav excelling.
Some of the vineyards are grand and expensive to say the least, others less so and some still family run businesses. but all in a beautiful park like region with stands of tall trees, rolling pasture and a generally well off rural look.
One highlight among many was visiting Lavender Farm - a garden and cafe - and eventually to find the tiny fairy wrens - two species- in residence. A tiny creature with a long tail held up at a rakish angle, and moving in family groups in a constant state of excitement. Life is never dull when you weigh only a few grams and look as enchanting as they do. But a photographic challenge to even get one in the photo, in focus and not blurred or just departing.
Rose and Elliot had also planned a treat, a visit to a bird of prey sanctuary where we were stunned by a display of Kites who flew around their trainer and caught items of food in the air and off the ground. we had a chance to hold one on a gloved arm and view it face to face. This is a bird we will see a lot of in the Darwin region.
The sanitary also had a collection of other raptors, most recovering birds that would be released back into the wild. The owls in particular thrilled us, with a range of specie including the very alien looking and endangered grassland owl from the northern territories.
Rather stunned by that experience we had more to come, including seeing migratory humpbacks very clearly off the coast from out next location in Augusta, then a half day trip getting up close to them by boat. There are plenty around and it seemed to be not a problem to get within 100m of a number of whales as they tracked north, surfacing regularly and showing their backs as they rolled up to breathe and with the occasional flash of a tail.
The coast also included a visit to the Cape Leeuwen lighthouse where the Indian and Southern Oceans meet in the SW corner, along a treacherous reef extending kilometers out to sea. A classic lighthouse beauty, very tall, old, white and sited on a peninsula with sea on both sides. We climbed to the top and saw the original mechanism that rotated the lens, and the lens itself which is still a working unit.
From Augusta we tracked further south to Nornalup, close to Walpole. This took us deep into the southern forests where the Eucalyptus must make some of Australia's greatest forests of tall trees. They are ancient Gondwanaland forests and certainly feel it with their close spaced massive trees and cool, dimly lit interiors. We visited an area where the forest was particularly good, with an elevated walkway, and a ground level trail also.
All this time we were taking our usual interest in the bird life and enjoying in particular some of the species restricted to the area. A few were photographed successfully, many not. Perhaps the best shot was Elliots when we visited the coast near Nornalup (to a place called Conspicuous Cliff). A Nankeen Kestrel came in within meters and hung motionless, in flight, on an updraft.
The final days travel was a longer drive back to Perth but much of it through good forested country, then a last night on the town. Sadly we were off the next day but having had some treasured time together and now feeling somewhat familiar with and appreciative of that south west corner of the continent.
Thanks Rose and Elliot, you planned a memorable trip and looked after us a treat.
S and S xx
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