Galapagos is instantly recognizable we have seen images of the strange landscape and creatures on it, but oh to be here!
There are a dozen or so larger and a dozen or so smaller islands, a volcanic archipelago in deep water. The island we are on is the one large one, Santa Cruz, low in profile, black basalt boulder fields with patchy dry scrub, like a desert. The rocks are so black and sharp they even hurt to sit on. The vegetation is punctuated with cactus trees, thick trunked and with flatted leaf blades, a surreal effect. The ocean starts abruptly with dark larva cliffs, not high, then a turquoise sea. We landed, in a half empty boeing, on an adjacent island, flat and no larger than required to land. The terminal was close to a wool shed in effect. We then ferried a narrow passage onto this island and drove to the opposite side via a road that went virtually straight through an alien looking terrain. On the other side was the principle township of the islands, a pretty fishing village now a tourist centre. However the vast majority of visitors stay on boats offshore, while we elected to stay on land where a much fewer visitors stay and certainly not the flashier ones.
The wildlife is everywhere and largely unconcerned with humans. Sea lions lounge in the harbour and haul themselves up onto boats where they can, boobies and pelicans are diving in the harbour, bright crabs and larva dark iguanas scuttle on the sea walls and we have particularly loved seeing some of the many finch species. They were the bird Darwin studied most closely here and referred to in his landmark publication The Origin of the Species. They are largely non descript but charming, and little afraid of being approached. Darwin posed the question how can you explain the range of different species on each of the islands, and along with evidence from many other locations he answered that question with an exceptional insight, particularly as he was not armed with knowledge of the mechanism of inherited traits, the gene. He made sense of the diversity of life and the changes visible in the fossil record, and galapagos is the location most associated with his work so it is a thrill to be here.
This afternoon we visited our first must see, a centre breeding and releasing the giant tortoise. You see the little ones and can walk in open compounds amongst the adults. Its a shock to see them, a male being as much as 300kg. A sight to behold as they walk, eat, and huff like something from a prehistoric epoch. All the way we were diverted by other wildlife sights but made it back home to a swim in the sea, and now dinner an early night and preparation for tomorrow, when we visit waht they call the highlands, the highest wild areas of this island.
lol
sx.
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